Livaboard "Boot Camp" Sail Instruction in Paradise Part # 1 of 2

 We had our first look this afternoon at the Bavaria 42 that would be our home on the water for the next week. The 2005 boat was chartered by our sailing school Nautilus Sailing (http://www.nautilussailing.com) from Horizon Yacht Charters Grenada (http://www.horizonyachtcharters.com/grenada/grenada.html). After meeting the rest of the crew, we moved our baggage aboard and got settled into our cabin. Amanda and I had lucked out with the owners cabin which had more storage which we needed as we were traveling an additional week before/after the trip and had alot of luggage to store.

 I had spoke to our sailing instructor Tim Geisler, the owner of Nautilus Sailing on many occaisons as we prepared for the trip and was glad to finaly meet him. He introduced us to Shaun, his newest instructor who would also be along to help us and to learn Tim's curriculum. Shaun had many, many years experience as a delivery skipper and would offer us lots of great advise from his local perspective and his extensive sailing experience.

First thing was to get aquainted with the crew and our new floating home. We were briefed on it's systems, and after introducing ourselves and getting aquainted a scavenger hunt was on as we tried to find everything on a list which included counting the boats through hulls. Then as night fell, we all stuffed into Shaun's car to go out for a bit of Sushi at a great local place he knew.

Early Sunday morning June 10th we began to settle into what would be our routine over the next week. With six people on a 42 foot boat we needed to be orderly and organized. Our breakfast's would consist of cerial and fruit, lunch meat sandwiches for lunch and we would each take turns preparing a dinner.

 After our initial chart briefing with sailing conditions in the area and information about all of our destinations by Bernadette with Horizon Yacht Charters and discussion of the days route and activities over some amazing fruit smoothies we untied the docklines and headed out to sea.

 This first day (Sunday) we sailed out of True Blue Bay and rounded the island into the west coast along the Caribbean Sea while doing motoring figure 8's and man overboard drills finishing with an introduction to anchoring. We did have some strong weather today and heeled the boat occaisionally in the gusty winds.

We would anchor for the night at Ross Pt in Grand Anse Bay (http://www.findmespot.com/mylocation/?id=8CMfa ) and took the dingy ashore for rum punches at The Coconut Beach French Creole Restaurant (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Coconut-Beach-Restaurant/242236219162412) then it was back to the boat for dinner.

 We went out Monday morning sailing and getting the feel for our boat as we learned mainsail trim and points of sail. Re-anchoring at Ross Pt. This time a dingy ride into St Georges Harbor to a dingy dock on the Carenage. We all walked to the fish and street market's to pick up more supplies of food for the week. We realized now after so much walking about why everyone on boats are so fit. Tim bought the largest 10 lbs chunk of fresh (half day old) ahi Tuna I had ever seen, and for about $15 U.S. from a vendor at the local fish market. It was enough to serve a dinner for six and to supplement our lunch's for many days after. We also got a deal on Mangos from a street vendor and stocked up on spices as well.

On day three (Tuesday) we had a morning introduction into navigation, chart reading. Then we headed out early for what would be our longest passage making our way to Tyrell Bay, Carriacou a 32 nautical mile journey that would take at least 6 hours. Sailing North along the Grenadian coast Shaun pointed out an awesome picturesque anchorage in Black Bay that he said had good holding near the river and amazing clearity to the water over a completely black sand bay/beach. Definately a stop to look forward too on the next trip.

 Staying only a few hundred yards offshore motor sailing up the coast untill rounding Sauters Bay and laying the Sisters of Rhonde Island we pointed up for Carriacou keeping well clear of Kick ‘em Jenny an underwater valcano. Today would be more then amazing sailing as we saw upwards of 34 plus knot winds as we made passage through the adverse current and 8-9 foot waves. This made for quick learning of heavy weather sailing, and was quite the test for a boatload of student sailors. What a way to learn sailing as we each took turns on the helm.

 In addition and for us to learn fishing techniques for cruisers 101, instructor Shaun had put out three fishing lines to troll behind us as we made our passage and as luck would have it we cought a huge Mackeral. Which he brought aboard and fileted for us to grill later for a fresh fish lunch from the sea. If we could just learn how to fish we will never go hungry aboard a sailboat.

As we approached Carriacou we made our way East to White Island which was our aftrenoon destination. Once we arrived, we found it unsutable for anchoring in the current weather. But with Shauns local experience we tucked around and through the reefs into the bay at Saline Island and anchored there for Lunch after our crossing.

 Saline Island was everything you expect to see in the  Caribbean, a tropical beach with crystal-clear turquoise water. Here we could do a little snorkeling and BBQ that fresh Mackeral for our  lunch. You couldnt have dreamed of a better day so far. We were thrilled. 

Making our way around Carriacou from Saline Island after lunch we put in for the night at the natural harbor of Tyrel Bay. This anchorage was filled with cruising boats from all over, even some that looked to be abandon there for many years. The Bay was tight and did not leave much room for swing giving us additional anchoring practice.

 Taking the dingy ride ashore some of the crew who had lap tops tried out the local Wi-Fi cafe's so they could get back in touch while Amanda and I walked around exploring the town and meeting some wonderful locals.

 We were told in our briefing that we could get a  good dinner at a The Slipway restaurent (http://slipwayrestaurant.com/) at Tyrell Bay Yacht Club but it was closed while the proprieters took there own vacation. We wound up having a fantastic dinner though of fresh cought Red Snapper and Lambie (Conch) at the Lambie Queen Restaurant & Bar. A wet dingy ride back to Ambrosia and a glass of wine before putting the long day behind us exausted and ready for our bunks.

Halfway through the week now as we departed Tyrell Bay, Carriacou on Wednesday June 13th,day four. Today we will head up and around the Northern coast of Carriocou headed to the Private Island of Petit St Vincent (http://www.petitstvincent.com/) for our evening anchorage. This would be another good passage but not as long as yesterdays.

We made a course for Sandy Island stopping briefly to practice picking up a mooring ball. We each took turns learning the fine art of mooring to the balls at Sandy Island and then headed with good wind up past and around  Gun Point as we tacked for PSV.

 Todays sailing took the better part of the day. When we arrived we anchored on a nice sandy shelf just 15 ft deep and just across from the private Islands Bar/ Restaurant. We went snorkeling to check out how well our anchor was set in the crystal clear water and noticed that the scope laid the boat out past a deeper ledge. That was spectacular.

 We all jumped into the dingy to shore for a quick drink and review session before takeing our first test. Yes, here in the most beautiful island paradise you could imagine we would take our first big test. Just 100 questions to answer for our ASA 101 certification, could we remember everything? We would find out an hour or so later that all four of us passed and we could progress to the next phase.

 Haveing passed the first of three certification tests (this was a working vacation after all) we concluded the day with another fantastic celebritory dinner aboard. Getting a physical workout all day followed by the mental workout taking our test we found it easy to call it a night early. We then tried sleeping as off and on storms kept awaking us occaisionally to open/close hatches as the storm rains came and passed through the night.

Stay tuned for our next chapter as we continue to learn and sail in the Spice Islands.

SOUTH TO THE WINDWARD "SPICE ISLANDS" OF GRENADA & THE GRENADINES

WELCOME TO PART ONE OF OUR FIVE PART SERIES

One thousand four hundred nautical miles south of Miami Florida lays the Caribbean Isle of Grenada. This is where we are to pick up the charter yacht for a seven day course with our American Sailing Association school.(http://www.nautilussailing.com) But first, we had to get there. Flying from Arizona took the better part of the day as we flew 85 miles south of Grenada to Trinidad & Tobago. A quick stop, as we had just 9 hours layover mostly filled with customs and immigration getting in and out of the airport. We had arranged a driver to show us a little of the country as we traveled to and from our hotel in Port of Spain. Had a glass of wine at the Hyatt Trinidad (trinidad.hyatt.com) before trying to get a few hours rest before we had to go back to the airport.

A quick 45 minute hop over to Grenada where we arrived and were shuttled to True Blue Bay Resort (http://www.truebluebay.com/) just in time for Breakfast. Maybe they took pity on us seeing how tired we were as they let us check into our room at 7:30 A.M. and we immediately took a nap.

We had been contacted before leaving by our friends Marco & Rahel Urech of the S/Y Habibi (http://habibisails.blogspot.com) who asked us to bring them a replacement VHF antenna from the U.S.

 So we met with them in the afternoon over drinks at the Dodgy Dock (http://www.facebook.com/dodgydock), and listened attentively as they told us of there last 8 months cruising to Grenada on there Island Packet 380 from the U.S. east coast.

Just before sunset we decided to check out the local area by foot and found Budget Marine Chandlers (http://www.budgetmarine.com/Store.aspx?id=grenada) where many cruisers were storing there yachts on the hard for hurricane season and stopped at De Big Fish Bar and Restaurant (http://debigfish.com/) on Prickly bay for dinner.

 This restaurant caters mostly to cruisers like the Portuguese sailors Tony and Margaret (http://joaleaadventures.com/) whom we met and who had just put there 2010 Hylas 54 on the hard and were preparing to return to Vancouver Canada for the season. They also spoke to us of there travels and we thought how lucky we were to get a day to speak to seasoned cruisers about these sailing grounds a day before we would prepare to set sail there.

 With one more day ahead of us before meeting our group at the boat late Saturday afternoon we decided to go into town. We had heard the the open market in St Georges on Saturday was the place to be, so we took a taxi there first. The market was quite a spectacle with vendors everywhere selling there wares of fresh fruit and spices. The streets were filled with people enjoying a day of shopping.

 While there we ran into Marco and Rahel again as the market was close to Port Louis Marina where the had docked there boat.

We decided to hike up to see the view from Fort George which was built in 1706 and overlooks the Carenage, Lagoon and outer harbor. and met a local named Paul who gave us a great walking tour of the Fort and told us about growing up there, island history and about the surrounding areas we were viewing.

Next we walked over the Sendall tunnel and stopped for waterside dining on The Carenage, a picturesque bay adjacent to the lagoon. We eat at the Ocean Grille (http://www.grenada-beaches.com/restaurants/ocean-grill-restaurant/) some great local fresh fish.

We mad it back to Tru Blue Bay just in time to meet Bob and Rob Anderson from up state, New York who were to join us for the week of sailing training that lay ahead.

Please stay tuned in for our next installment as we begin our training and head out into the Caribbean Sea and up the coast of Grenada on the Bavaria 42 S/V AMBROSIA. Coming soon.

The last hurdles of International Travel

AIRLINES HUB OF TRINIDAD & TABAGO

Well after a few restless nites over the last few weeks we believe that we have solved a myriad of problems on our trip south that popped up as we made final preparations to go sail the Caribbean.

WHERE TO BEGIN:

 Well just a few weeks ago as we were checking out our Itinerary and our documents we noticed the first problem. We had purchased our tickets flight's thru Expedia using Amanda's current married name, but noticed that it did not match her maiden name on her passport. After hours on the phone with the airlines and Expedia's customer service rep's in India or wherever we were told that the names had to match to be allowed to check into our destination country. Apparently the receiving country could refuse her entry and fine the airline some $30k for bringing her there (Seemingly a quick way for a poor government to make some money at our expense) and return us back to the states.

U.S. PASSPORT

 So after many more hours involved we were finally able to change her name with the airline back to her maiden name so customs and immigration would be happy as there was not enough time before the trip to get her passport name changed. We decided that since not really trusting the word of the foreign airlines customer service on this important matter we decided to check out with American Airlines at our departure airport. When we asked for copy's of our actual tickets we found out the name had not been changed only internal notes were made of the discrepancy. We were somewhat relieved after speaking to a customs officer at the airport that as long as she brought substantiating documents such as birth certificates and marriage license we would be all right. Wow what a relief.



YELLOW FEVER MAP



THE NEXT BIG PROBLEM - Immunization for entry clearance.

 When making our travel arrangements to get to Grenada we found that there was no direct flights from Arizona to get there. So we decided (without proper research) to not only take the flight from Miami to Grenada via Trinidad and Tobago but to leave a few days earlier and stay there for a day to see that country as well. We booked a nice hotel in Port of Spain and looked forward to taking in the sites there before we got to the sailboat.

 Well we just discovered a major problem while looking thru the U.S. State Dept traveler's information website. Apparently, without a Yellow Fever Vaccination we would not be allowed in Grenada having spent more then 12 hours in an infected country like Trinidad. We also found out there was not enough time to get a doctor to prescribe a vaccination and to get the shot ordered at a special clinic also taking into account the vaccine takes 10 days after the shot to be effective. This would not be enough time and could spell disaster for our trip plans.

TYPICAL ISLAND TRANSIT

We were facing a big dilemma. There were not many favorable options . We could use our flight to Miami and get a hotel there for a night then book a direct flight the next day to Grenada and be there still a day earlier then we had planned, or get the airline to route us thru some other country and hopefully the change fee would be less expensive. After hours on the phone again first with Expedia and then the airline direct (although we would be traveling American, Caribbean and Liat Airlines) we were told that Expedia had made the tickets thru Caribbean Airlines and they were demanding that with any changes at least one leg of our trip included there airline. This left us no other option but to travel to Trinidad as that was there hub and the only way to get to Grenada.

PIARCO AIRPORT, TRINIDAD



Finally after speaking with an very nice and understanding Trinidadian customer service rep of Caribbean Airlines we made a change in plans to keep our original plans with the exception of leaving Trinidad for Grenada a day earlier so as to be in the country less then 12 hours eliminating the need for vaccination. Thanks to him we were able to utilize at least one night of our booked hotel stay in Trinidad and see a little of that country before continuing on to Grenada.

SAINT GEORGE'S GRENADA

THE MORAL OF THE STORY:

 So in the end at looks right now that we have  hopefully averted a complete disaster. We now can look forward to our trip plans with less stress. As future world travelers we are getting a real taste of customs and immigration rules, quarantine procedures and learning to sail all in one trip. Certainly more then we initially had bargained for. This was a good experience in the level of preparedness we will need to travel the world by cruising sailboat.

NEXT STOP SAILING GRENADA AND THE GRENADINES











Planning our learn to sail charter vacation.

As many of you know if you are following us on our facebook page, we have decided a few months ago to take an American Sailing Association course to gain the specific knowledge to transition from power to sail. I have spoken to cruisers that just bought a boat, and learned as they went. But for us, we wanted some pointers and practice first.  Also transitioning to a 20 ton plus sailing vessel from a 30' trailer able power cruiser certainly would be wise. First thing to do was decide on one of the many good schools and instructors available. Also where should we learn. We figured that although we could get our certificate and learn in our own backyard in San Diego that we should learn it in the environment we were likely to sail in. Also we were looking for a complete lifestyle experience, so we limited our search to ones offering live aboard courses. And we finally decided to take our course in the Caribbean.

Highlights from a Nautilus Sailing's live aboard sailing courses in the Grenadines.

In deciding who to teach us and after interviewing numerous schools we became very impressed by Nautilus Sailing School from Crested Butte, Co and their lead instructor Tim Geisler. They have two off shore courses available throughout the year , one in the Sea of Cortez, Mexico and the one we chose in Grenada and the Grenadines.  The  availability for us to go would be after June 1st the beginning of hurricane season, but knowing that Grenada lay south of the track of most hurricanes we felt it was a better choice then schools training in the Virgin Islands.

The Distance from Phoenix to Grenada is 3492 miles or 3034 nautical miles.

Arranging for a flight to Grenada from Phoenix, Az was another hurdle. With no direct flights, we chose to leave a few days before with a stop in Trinidad and Tobago. After the course we will spend a few more days in Grenada and then stay another night in Barbados before heading back to the states. The school has arranged for us to pick up the charter boat from Horizon Yacht Charters. Our training vessel will be either a Bavaria 39 or 42. We will come aboard in True Blue Bay, Grenada to begin our week long course.

True Blue Bay Resort and Marina

This is a learning vacation. The emphasis is on learning how to sail, through hands-on experience, in a beautiful part of the world. Mornings will typically be spent learning and practicing new skills. In the afternoons we will set sail, enjoying the backdrop of spectacular beaches and islands of the Grenadines, refining skills along the way. Once anchored for the afternoon, there will be free time to spend exploring, snorkeling, fishing, and relaxing. During our week at sea we hope to both graduate with the ASA knowledge of their courses of Basic Keel boat Sailing #101, Basic Coastal Cruising  #103, Bare boat Chartering #104 also called Intermediate Coastal Cruising.

Outfitting ourselves for our trip has been another interesting layer for us. As we have never sailed a cruising sailboat in the Caribbean we needed to purchase alot of gear for the trip. From soft sided waterproof luggage that would be easy to stow to surf booties and rash guards. We bought it all, sailing gloves (don't use the online size guide, it's never right.) to VHF handheld radio's, waterproof flashlights, boat shoes,wide brimmed hats and lots of bug spray and sunscreen. The task at hand seamed overwhelming but we accomplished it. My favorite new piece of gear was the prescription snorkel mask. Everything we purchased we felt could be used down the road on our own cruising boat and so we looked at this as an investment we had to make any way.

We feel like we are ready to go, even if were a month away yet. Now it's time to continue our textbook studying  and count down the days.

Mopion Island, The Grenadines